On Saturday, July 28 we arrived in the old city oblivious to the fact that a mass Ramadan prayer would be taking place at 8pm. In addition it's the Jewish Holiday Tisha B'Av so prayers will be taking place at The Western Wall and Jewish quarter. Someone also told me that it's a Christian holiday today but googling didn't bring anything up.
Our destination was the Christian Quarter. S was determined to buy a couple of his buddies in the States some gifts from the Old City. Upon arriving around 4pm, the hustle and bustle at the Damascus (Shchem or Nablus) Gate in preparation for Ramadan was apparent. Parking was impossible. We decided to head to The Jewish Quarter, found parking there in a snap. It's Shabbat, parking was free and we found a most convenient spot.
We entered through the Zion Gate, walked through narrow alleys and passed through the Arab market in the Old City heading to The Western Wall. It was now 5pm and the shop owners were closing down heading to prayers soon. We were the last of the customers. S found a couple of gifts for his friends. We didn't haggle much.
As S was at the shop looking for some gifts I was further down the alley and this is what I encountered. These two guys making bread on a taboon. I asked them what was the name of the bread. They told me the name in Arabic, and instead of repeating themselves when I didn't catch it, they decided to just make it easy, and called it Druze bread, everyone here is familiar with it.
One orthodox man told me I shouldn't snap photos in the old city, it was the day of rest, the shabbat. All along I was telling my sister to cover herself up with her cardigan. Modesty whether you are in the Jewish, Muslim, Christian or Armenian quarter is important. The minute I would indulge in enjoying the early evening breeze my sister would take her cardigan off and reveal sleeveless arms. It was a game of a cat and mouse.
The breads were 50 cents a piece. They are traditionally served with Labne and zaatar. We just devoured it as is. The street signs below show the location of these lads. Am not sure if it is their regular corner spot. The photo to the right shows the pavers you walk on in the old city.
Here is a video I found on the web showing how the bread is made and a recipe. I thought you should see the pillow they use as I didn't snap it clearly in these series of photos. I haven't tested the recipe but I found some of the tips to be very useful.